2 Great New Open Source iOS Apps: iStrobe and Ecological Footprint

I’ve extended the open source iPhone apps list with two great new apps.  

The quest for quality iPhone and iPad programming examples continues and both of these apps are app store apps that the creators generously decided to open source.  While there are a lot of great examples on the list with the continuous release of new features more are always welcome.

The first app is very interesting because I know that the topic of controlling the iPhone 4′s flash is searched for quite frequently on this site.  This app features a strobe lite, see video:

You can find the homepage here: iStrobe.

The other app is Ecological Footprint, which shows how to share data using Facebook connect and e-mail, utilizing Core Data and more.  See video:

You can find the homepage here: Ecological Footprint.

Check here for more information on the other 37 open source iphone app store apps.

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©2010 iPhone iOS 4 iTV iPad SDK Development Tutorials, Programming Tips, News. All Rights Reserved.

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WPF 4 Lowers Default BitmapScalingMode Quality

If you’ve recently upgraded a .NET 3.5 WPF application to .NET 4.0, you may have noticed that some of your images look like crap. This is because Microsoft has changed how WPF rescales images. Instead of the original high quality, it has been lowered to low quality. This was done, they say, to improve performance.

Here’s some images that demonstrate what’s going on. I created an application and did nothing except change the target version of the .NET framework. .NET 3.5 is on the left and .NET 4.0 is on the right.

The clock image is courtesy of Paul R. Hayes.

There’s no way to change the default scaling mode in WPF, however you can put a style in your App.xaml or some other high-level place and have it apply to all of your images.

<Window.Resources>
    <Style TargetType="{x:Type Image}">
        <Setter Property="RenderOptions.BitmapScalingMode"
               Value="HighQuality" />
    </Style>
</Window.Resources>

I have mixed feelings on the change. The downside is that some apps will look quite a bit different when switching to .NET 4.0. The upsides is, however, that the low quality scaling mode is entirely done in the GPU, which means the performance will be way better than the CPU-only high quality scaling.

Make a Two-Screen Gocco Print using Adobe Illustrator – Vector Premium Tutorial


We have another great Vector Premium tutorial available exclusively for Premium members today. If you’ve ever wanted to plan a vector image for Gocco Printing and create a unique hand-crafted piece of artwork, then we have an awesome tutorial for you!

Continue reading “Make a Two-Screen Gocco Print using Adobe Illustrator – Vector Premium Tutorial”

Quick Tip – Getting The Best Out of Twixtor

In this tutorial I’ll explain how to get the best out of Revision FX: Twixtor, and what you should consider before shooting a footage that you plan to slow down. I’ll talk about whats best to do, when using a cheap camera and what problems might occur and how to fix them.


Tutorial

Shooting Your Footage

Step 1:Motion Blur

The first thing you’ll have to have in mind is that motion blur is Twixtor’s worst enemy, and if your footage has a lot of it, don’t expect to have good results. If you have a good camera you can skip this step. Motion blur occurs due to the fast motion of the objects in the video and if you have a crappy camera you’ll have a lot of it. So the best way to get rid of the motion blur is just to lower the speed of the movement as much possible. For example, if you are doing a punch shot where one actor is punching another, just don’t shoot a super fast punch going in front of the “victims” face because:

  • First: You’ll be able to see the fist going in front and not interacting with the face.
  • Second: You’ll have a low detail shot, which will look not as good as you expect
  • Third: A slow motion motion blur looks really awful
  • Fourth: You might get really weird results,because Twixtor might get confused with the motion of the movement due to the low detail.

So the best way to shoot your footage for twixtor will be to slow down your motion on the scene. Just tell the actors to do the scene slowly (Not as if they have mental problems), just a slower than a real punch.That way you wont have any motion blur in the footage, the punch will be exactly in place and twixtor won’t get confused and you’ll get a good effect

If you are going to do this step when shooting your footage, make sure that there is no background moving objects, like a person walking, because it will look horrible. Just imagine a guy punching another guy at super slow motion and a woman with her child walks behind them twice as fast.

Step 2:Reducing the camera movement

Try and reduce the camera movement, by putting it on something or a tripod, this will enhance your result a lot, because you’ll have less motion to process, and you won’t get weird results as a natural camera movement, but with a slow motion footage or so (Bearing in mind that you did the “Step 1″ of this tutorial). With no camera movement Twixtor will be able to solve the pixel motion easier and you reduce the chance of a crappy result.

Step 3: Reduce overlapping movements

Try and reduce the overlapping movements as much as possible, because Twixtor will get confused with the movement and you’ll get a really bad glitch in your effect. You can see this problem occurring in my final preview at 0:17, look at the water splash behind her feet. That problem occurs because the water and the feet are going in opposite directions, so keep that in mind.

Step 4: Shoot as much detailed footage as possible

Twixtor blends frames and uses vectors for the movement, so don’t expect to get a super slow motion like in the show “Time Warp” for example. If your footage is not detailed, it will stay this way after applying Twixtor, so try to film as detailed as possible.

Step 5: Night shots are a bad idea

If you are doing a low detail night shot, don’t expect much even if you don’t have digital noise. Shoot only when everything is well lit up.


Twixtor and After Effects

Original footage

You can see that my original footage is already slow motioned but I didn’t feel it slow enough so reduced the speed by 75% using Twixtor. I shot it with a Sony HDR-SR11E, for those who are interested. I did not follow some of the 5 steps above, so I got some problems as you can see, like the splash motion at 0:17. The original length of the shot was 0:03 but after shooting it at slow motion mode i got 0:12, after Twixtor a got 0:40 which is absolutely stunning.

Step 1

Open a new composition with your footage (My footage is 0:12 seconds long and I’m going to slow it down with 75 percent so I should make my comp length about 40 sec long), and add a solid layer and apply Twixtor to the solid layer. (The color doesn’t matter, just make sure its the same size as the comp.)

Step 2

These are the settings we are going to use:

Display: Since we applied Twixtor on a solid, we are seeing our footage on the solid layer. This function allows us to switch between the original footage and the Twixtored footage.

Colour Source: This is the footage that we are going to slow down.

Input Fields: If you are having problem with the fields although AE does a great job with solving them, just use this function

Input Frame Rate: Set it up to match the FPS of your original footage

Motion Vectors: This is how accurate Twixtor will trace the motion of the footage. Best-Bigger render time-Best results , No motion vectors – Faster render time- Bad results

Motion Sensitivity: The more, the best. The name speaks for it self so there is no explanation needed. Play with it and you’ll see what it does.

Plenty Memory?: If you tick this, the last motion will be cached so a second RAM preview will be faster

Time Remap Mode: I personally like to use the “Speed”, its for setting up how much you would like to slow down the footage (100% means the footage stays the same)

Smart Blend: This will enhance the blending of the frames and you’ll get better results.

Motion blur compensation: This will fix the motion blur of your footage, but actually don’t relly on it, because it wont work as you might expect.

Step 2

Pre-compose the two layers (Note that we pre-compose the two layers not only the Twixtor layer) and add some post effects or whatever you like and you are good to go!

Step 3

Hit the RAM preview button and enjoy this amazing plug-in doing its magic :)

Additional Option: Slow Motion using Timewarp

Twixtor isn’t the only way you can do a slow motion effect. Go to the effects panel and type “Timewarp” and check this plug-in that comes with After Effects. It actually pretty good but the render time can kill you.

Additional Option 2: Slow Motion using Frame Blending.

Another way to do a slow motion is by going to Layer – Frame Blending – Pixel Motion, and enable the Frame Blending from the Comp settings.

Now go to Layer – Time – Time stretch – 125% and hit OK. This will render fast but the results are really crappy and you can NOT get a super slow motion effect like with “Timewarp” or “Twixtor”

Additional Option 3: Slow Motion using Interlaced Footage

There is a technique for slow motioning interlaced footage, but I’ll leave this one to Maltaannon.


Using Guitar Amp Simulators 101, Part 2

In the first part of Guitar Amp Simulators 101, we looked at the fundamentals of choosing, setting up and getting started with an amplifier plugin. In this second part, we’re going to get our hands dirty and really get to grips with how to get the best out of our software amps.

As before, and largely for the sake of practicality, I’m working primarily in Guitar Rig, but many of the techniques we’ll look at can be applied to whatever software you’re using. Feel free to share your own software specific tips and tricks in the comments!


Getting Into the Ballpark

The easiest way to begin to find your own sound is by heading for what you know. If you’re used to a Marshall stack with a lovely old TS-808 in front of it, you’re bound to go for the closest approximation of that set-up your software will provide.

While that’s all well and good, your options in the digital world are much wider and, moreover, a model of, say, an old JCM800 and a matching 4×12 is just that – a model, an archetype – and so may not correspond exactly with what you’d expect from your own experience with the real world equivalents.


Mix and Match

With that idea in mind, it’s time well spent to cycle through all the available options to find out what kind of sounds they produce. Think of it like experimenting with colours in visual art: in that scenario, you’d be unlikely to get the best representation of the scene you’re trying to paint by using the colours right out of your paint box; you’re going to want to mix and match.

In doing this, you might encounter some unexpected results. Don’t be afraid to try some unholy alliances – say, a Triple Rectifier style high gain head with a tweed 2×12 cabinet; it just might be the sound you’re looking for, even if it might raise eyebrows if you tried it at your local rock club gig.

With amp simulation, it’s helpful to think of the cabinet not so much as a means of turning an electrical signal into something you can hear (indeed, in the virtual world, it definitely isn’t) and more as an additional layer of EQ. Each of the cabinet models is, essentially, just an EQ curve, and finding the right one can make or break your virtual amp sound.

As an example, here’s Guitar Rig 3’s representation of a Plexi style Marshall half stack into a matching 4×12 cabinet:

Download audio file (1-PlexiPlexi.mp3)

And here’s the exact same amp and settings into a Fender style 2×12:

Download audio file (2-PlexiTwang.mp3)

Both are fine, but you can clearly hear how the different cabinet models are introducing a completely different EQ profile to the overall sound. So by doing this, we’re giving ourselves a whole new layer of EQ control beyond the amp’s standard bass, middle, treble and presence.


Go Expert

Having selected an amp and cabinet model with the right voicings for the tone you want, the first port of call for a little fine tuning is the amp’s standard controls – gain and EQ; but these will get you only so far. To really take control of the tonal properties of your amp sound, you need to get under the hood and get to grips with the “expert” settings.

In Guitar Rig, clicking on the expand button (+) at the left of the amp module will reveal a new panel, typically containing settings for power supply, Variac, sag, response and bias.

Each of these settings has an important part to play in defining the overall characteristics of the amplifier model, and to the way in which it responds to your guitar signal. For example, using these controls, you can choose between a loose, spongy sound and a tighter, hi-fi sound, or something between the two.

  • Power supply allows you to select between a 50 Hz or 60 Hz supply. The difference is subtle, but changing the supply to the same sort you’re used to might just help!
  • Variac emulates changes to an amplifier’s supply voltage, a lower setting giving more of a vintage “brown” sound while higher settings are punchier and more modern sounding.
  • Sag does much as the name suggests, and is intended to emulate the differences between solid state and tube rectification. Tube rectification – more sag – has a softer, more saturated sound, and sounds particularly good for lead guitar tones, while the solid state end of the spectrum is harder, colder and well suited to punchy rhythm tones.
  • Bias is something tube amp owners will already be familiar with, and many will know that bias settings have a big impact on an amp’s sound. In Guitar Rig, a lower bias setting produces a loose grain, fuzzier kind of tone, whereas a higher setting is cleaner and more defined.
  • Response essentially changes the software’s response to the dynamics of your playing. Lower settings work well with more sag and lower bias to produce an organic, vintage sound; while higher settings will generally suit more hi-fi sounding modern tones.

Most of the effect modules, from distortions to delays, have these expert controls too, and are well worth getting to grips with to really fine tune your sound. We’ll touch on effects later, but for now, let’s have a quick look at what we can achieve with the amplifiers.

Here, I’ve taken Guitar Rig’s Ultrasonic amp model – a modern high gain amplifier along the lines of Bogner’s Uberschall – along with its matching cabinet, and tried to get two quite different high gain tones.

In this first clip, I’ve used the expert settings to give the amp an over the top, saturated, spitting sound by setting the bias, Variac and response parameters quite low with quite a bit of sag, producing a spongy sound reminiscent of a hot-rodded Marshall:

Download audio file (3-UltrasonicSoft.mp3)

In this second clip, while the amp’s EQ remains the same, the expert settings are reversed – low sag, high variac, bias and response – giving the amp a faster, harder response and, consequently, a colder and stiffer sound, more along the lines of Engl or Fryette amps than Bogner or Mesa:

Download audio file (4-UltrasonicHard.mp3)

Same amp, same cabinet, very different vibe, and quite apart from the properties of the sound produced, each setting has a very different feel when you’re playing through it: equally, if not more important than the sound itself.

For example, the way a cranked up Marshall will saturate and sag can inspire you to really dig in to the strings, producing long, singing sustained notes – great for soloing, but not brilliant for pin sharp riffage. An Engl, on the other hand, with its rapid attack and relatively unsaturated sound is a dream come true for metal style rhythms, but not so great for those soaring, epic pentatonic widdle fests we all like to indulge in from time to time.

Where real world, physical amps are concerned, most of us have to find a compromise, but with software, we can completely change the way an amplifier works and sounds with a few mouse clicks: lots of potential! Peavey’s ReValver even allows you to completely alter its amp models with different tubes and circuit designs.


Mic and Air

Between all of the options and parameters we’ve looked at so far, you’d be hard pushed not to find something close to the tone you want, but we’re still only scratching the surface of what’s possible.

In Guitar Rig, you’ll notice a pair of slider controls on the cabinet’s front panel. The uppermost of the two allows you to switch or blend between two different types of microphone, while the bottom slider allows you to control the amount of “air” – basically room reverberations – in the sound.

If you’ve never had much opportunity to play around with real microphones in front of your amplifier, you may not be aware of the extent to which these factors – microphone choice and positioning – influence recorded sounds. For our purposes, it’s sufficient to say that microphone selection and positioning is an art in itself, and good studio engineers will often invest a lot of time and effort into finding the perfect method (methods they’ll often guard like a deep secret!).

Now, you can be sure they don’t go to all that effort for nothing, so let’s see what we can achieve with our microphones.

In this first example, I have a Fender Tweed style amplifier with a matching 4×10 cabinet, and I’m aiming for a nice, raw, bluesy kind of sound. There’s a little gain boost in front of the amp, and some spring reverb between the head and cabinet. I’ve got the microphone slider set fully to the left, which means we’re only hearing Microphone A, with just a whisper (about 1.2, actually) of air:

Download audio file (5-TweedA.mp3)

And here’s the same thing again, but this time with the microphone slider fully right, so we’re hearing only Microphone B:

Download audio file (6-TweedB.mp3)

Conveniently enough for your intrepid guide, Microphone A is a little too dull and Microphone B is somewhat too harsh, so let’s see what happens when I blend the two by putting the slider right in the middle:

Download audio file (7-TweedAB.mp3)

To me, that’s just the right balance of the fullness of A and the bite and clarity of B, but for my bluesy intentions, it’s still a little dead and lifeless, so let’s wind the air slider up to around two thirds full:

Download audio file (8-TweedABAIR.mp3)

Much better. Now we’ve got more of a sense of the amp in a room, and it adds nicely to the dynamics of the riff.


All Together Now

So we’ve seen that there’s huge scope for tailoring and tweaking our sound beyond the limits of merely choosing an amp and dialling in the EQ. We’ve got at least two extra layers of EQing possibilities with our choice of cabinet and microphone, and more still if we blend the mics; we can alter the response and dynamics of the amp with the “expert” controls, and we can add some life into the sound (or, conversely, make things tighter more focussed) by varying the amount of room sound or “air” in the microphones.

Remember, too, that the effect modules have expert settings, too, so there’s a whole world of possibilities with our distortions, delays and modulations, too.


Van Shmalen

Let’s try to build a sound from the ground up using these techniques I’ve described, enabling you to see how you can apply these methods to your own projects. Conveniently enough, I just stumbled on some isolated guitar tracks from an early Van Halen record and, though I’m not a big fan of his music, you can’t argue with his guitar tone, so let’s take that as something to aim for.


The Basic Rig

Here’s an appropriate Marshall Plexi style amp model, with matching cabinet, bass around 1 to keep out the flab, middle at 6, treble at 10 to add some bite, and presence at 6 for a dash of sparkle. All the expert controls are in the middle at 12 O’Clock and, in tribute to Van Halen, I tuned down a half-step… Without a tuner.

Download audio file (9-Van1.mp3)

Not a bad approximation, if you allow for my rotten playing. But even with both volume controls at full tilt, it’s not got that smooth gain, and it’s lacking a little substance and excitement. It’s needs more bite, too, and some air.


Microphone Action

So, let’s put some more bite in there by mixing in a lot more of Microphone B. I’m going for 80% B and 20% A, as that sounds like as much bite as I can get without the sound becoming too harsh. In addition, I’m backing the middle off to around 4 to help put an edge on the sound, and I’m also adding some air, around 3.7, to help give it that vintage rock liveness.

Download audio file (10-Van2.mp3)

Closer, but the quality of the distortion is still bothering me. It needs a juicier, fatter feel, and still more bite.


More Juice!

I’m going to back off the Warm Volume control to leave me with just the “bright” sound, and I’ll pop out the expert panel and make the following adjustments:

  • Bump up the Variac to 150. The Plexi model has a warm and rounded tone, so doing this is going to give it just a dash more attack
  • Bring the sag down to around 3.0, again giving a little more immediacy to the tone
  • Lower the response setting to around 2.0, adding just a touch more life and complimenting the added bite of the other settings
  • Up the bias to around 6.0, again giving just a tad more edge and bite

Download audio file (11-Van3.mp3)

Much closer! Now it really sounds alive, but I still want more juice in there.


Still More Juice!

I’ll add the Skreamer overdrive module – a digital homage to the Ibanez Tube Screamer – with volume at 6.2 and tone at 5 and drive at 2. The extra overdrive is quite low, but the higher volume setting will push the front end of the amp harder; these combined should give me that saturated sound.

I’m also going to open the expert panel to take out a little bass to cut the flab, and set the clean control to 0 so that all of the processed signal from the Skreamer goes into the amp.

Download audio file (12-Van4.mp3)

That’s really not bad! The quality of the gain sounds about right, and it feels responsive to play through, but it’s definitely still too warm sounding. I still want more edge.


Bite Without Fizz

I’ll try a Fender style 2×12 cabinet model with the same microphone blend, but I’ll back the amp’s treble off a hair to 8 to keep it from getting fizzy.

Download audio file (13-Van5.mp3)

Now we’re really in the right neighbourhood, but too much of the body and oomph has gone.


More Balls!

I’m going to back the microphone mix down a little towards Microphone A, to a level of 60/40, in order to introduce more of Mic A’s warmth, offsetting the brighter tone of this cabinet. I’ll also bump the amp’s bass EQ and warm volume up to 4, and drop the Skreamer’s tone to 0, for the same reason.

Finally, just to add some interest and thicken things up, I’m going to put the Phaser Nine model in front of the amp and set it to 13% wet; low enough that you can’t really hear the phaser’s sweep, but high enough that you get a sense of a fatter, more organic sound.

Download audio file (14-Van6.mp3)


Close Enough for the Blues

Well, I’d say that’s about right. I’d maybe play around with the level of drive on the Skreamer, depending on what I was playing, but the tone and response of this model sounds pretty much like what I was aiming for.

So to recap, even before we’ve sprinkled any production fairy dust with compression, EQ or reverb, we’ve gone from this:

Download audio file (9-Van1.mp3)

To this:

Download audio file (14-Van6.mp3)


But Wait, There’s More

Yes, this is only the beginning. The more advanced tweakers among you may have noticed some glaring omissions in this article: What about blending multiple cabinets? Blending multiple amps? Third party cabinet impulses? All will be covered in the next and final part of this series.

In the meantime, I hope this article has given you some ideas and inspiration to start learning how to get more out of your amp plugin, and please feel free to share your own thoughts, tips and tricks in the comments section.


Workshop #106: Beat to Base by Widescream

At Audiotuts+ we regularly put up a reader track for workshopping and critique (find out how to submit a track). This is how it works: you upload your song, and every week or so we’ll publish one here and step away from the podium. The floor is yours to talk about the track and how the artist can fix problems in and improve upon the mix and the song.

This track has been submitted for your friendly, constructive criticism. They have put their track (and their heart and soul) in your hands to learn and get useful feedback.

  • Do you enjoy the song or track itself? Does it have potential?
  • Can the arrangement be improved?
  • How did you find the mix? What would you do differently?
  • What do you enjoy about the rhythm track? What can be done to improve it?
  • Is the choice of instruments relevant and effective for the style/song?
  • Are the lyrics (if any) effective? Does the style, arrangement and genre of the song suit them?
  • Can you suggest any specific techniques that might improve the track?
  • Do you have any other constructive feedback?

Beat to Base by Widescream

Artist’s websites: soundcloud.com/widescream, myspace.com/widescreamlive

Description of the track:

My last track.

Download audio file (WidescreamBeatToBase.mp3)

Terms of Use: Users can stream the track for the purposes of giving feedback but cannot download or redistribute it.

Have a listen to the track and offer your constructive criticism for this Workshop in the comments section.


Submit Your Tracks for Workshopping

Need constructive criticism on your own tracks? Submit them using this form.


Create Brilliant Glossy Typography in Photoshop – Psdtuts Premium Tutorial


Today, we have another Psd Premium tutorial exclusively available to Premium members. If you want to take your digital painting and illustration skills to the next level, then we have an awesome tutorial for you. Learn more after the jump!


This Premium Tutorial is Filled with Creative Tips

When used together, Photoshop and Illustrator are a powerful combination. They can be combined to create just about any type of illustration. Today, we will demonstrate how to sketch a drawing, refine it in Illustrator, and then bring it into Photoshop to create a truly brilliant glossy typographic illustration. Let’s get started!


Professional and Detailed Instructions Inside

Premium members can Log in and Download! Otherwise, Join Now! Below are some sample images from this tutorial.


Psd Premium Membership

As you know, we run a premium membership system here that costs $9 a month (or $22 for 3 months!) which gives members access to the Source files for tutorials as well as periodic extra tutorials, like this one! You’ll also get access to Net Premium and Vector Premium, too. If you’re a Premium member, you can log in and download the tutorial. If you’re not a member, you can of course join today!

Presenting A Brand using 3Ds Max – Day 1

When designing an identity and brand materials for a client, good presentation is crucial! In the first part of this 2-day tutorial, Hussain Almossawi takes us through how to model the different items usually involved in the branding process, whilst in Day 2 he’ll cover Lighting, Applying Materials, Studio Settings, Rendering and Exporting, and finally the Post Production. So let’s get started!

Step 1

First visualize how your scene will look, based on the different stationary items that it will have within it. It’s always best that your scene-setting have somewhat of a circular arrangement rather then being stacked in a straight line, as it gives it more depth and as such is likely to be more appealing to your client. This is what I have in mind:

Step 2

We will start by creating each stationary item and positioning them one by one. Lets start with the folder. Create a plane with the following settings, 21.6cm x 28cm

Step 3

Rotate it 90 degrees so it’s standing.

Step 4

Hold shift and clone the Plane.

Step 5

Rotate it at some angle to show the folder is open.

Step 6

Hold down alt+A and click the other plane, and use the following settings to align the two edges together.

Step 7

Group all of the pieces and name the group “Folder”.

Step 8

Next we will do the business cards. Create a New Box with the following settings- Length: 5.2 cm, Width: 8.2 cm, Height: .03 cm

Step 9

Rotate the card so that its somehow lying or leaning back on the folder.

Step 10

Duplicate the card.

Step 11

Rotate it more and place it in front of the first card, making sure it doesn’t block anything yet look natural by leaning on the first card or the folder.

Step 12

Group those 2 and call them “Cards”

Step 13

Next we will create the letterheads, Create a new plane, I’m using US Letter sized paper for my measurements which will be 8.5″ x 11″ (21.6cm x 28cm).

Step 14

Duplicate the Plane by holding Shift and dragging up just a bit, we want to place the new plane over the first plane

Step 15

Rotate the new Plane sideways 5 degrees, to make it look like the papers have been placed naturally.

Step 16

Group those sheets together and call it “Letterheads”.

Step 17

Now the calendar. Select the line tool.

Step 18

Draw an isosceles triangular shape.

Step 19

Right Click your line, select Refine, and place a dot in the middle of your triangle base.

Step 20

Raise the dot just a bit from the surface.

Step 21

Select your 3 Corners.

Step 22

Use the Fillet tool to round the corners, use it manually by clicking and dragging the dots.

Step 23

Go into the Spline Mode and select your line.

Step 24

Use the Outline tool, click and drag towards the inside, or apply a value of .25cm.

Step 25

Use the Extrude Tool from the Modifier List, with a value of 10.2cm.

Step 26

Now we will make the pages/cover for the front and back of the Calendar. Create a new Plane, Length: 14.5cm Width: 10cm, with the following segments, Length: 3 Width: 25

Step 27

Right click and convert to Editable Poly.

Step 28

Select the inner segments of the first row.

Step 29

Press ‘Loop’.

Step 30

Click the Chamfer Tool, and use a value of .08cm.

Step 31

Select the first inner horizontal segment.

Step 32

Move it to the top to give it some margin.

Step 33

Repeat the same Step for the second horizontal segment, Placing it right under the first, allowing it to create somewhat of a square shape where the binder ring will go through.

Step 34

Select the new created square spaces (polygons) across the top of the boxes.

Step 35

Press the delete key on your keyboard.

Step 36

Select all your polygons.

Step 37

Select the Extrude tool and apply a value of .2cm.

Step 38

Rotate the box, and place it appropriately on top of the stand we created earlier.

Step 39

Select your box and use the Mirror Tool.

Step 40

Position it appropriately to the back side of the stand.

Step 41

Now we will create the Spiral Rings across the top that will hold all the pages together. Create a Torus Shape, with these values, Radius1: 2.4cm, Radius 2: 0.25cm.

Step 42

Place it on top of the stand, making it go nicely through both holes in the front and back.

Step 43

Hold shift and drag the Torus to the next hole.

Step 44

Set the number of copies to 23, unless you have more holes in your version.

Step 45

Group all those and call it “Calendar”

Step 46

Moving on to the Notebook which is done exact same way as the calendar. Create a new Plane Length: 14.4cm Width: 8.5cm, with the following segments, Length: 25 Width 3.

Step 47

Right Click the Plane and convert to Editable Poly.

Step 48

Select the first inner vertical segment and move it to the side giving it some margin.

Step 49

Repeat the same step for the second vertical segment, placing it right next to the first, allowing it to create somewhat of a square shape where the binder ring will go through

Step 50

Select all of the inner horizontal segments.

Step 51

Click the Chamfer Tool, and use a value of .08cm.

Step 52

Select the newly created square spaces you just created.

Step 53

Get rid of them by pressing the Delete key.

Step 54

Select All polygons.

Step 55

Extrude the Polygons with a value of .04cm.

Step 56

Hold shift and drag the plane on top of the original one to clone it.

Step 57

Go back to Polygon mode. Your polygons should already be selected but if not, select the polygons on the top side.

Step 58

Extrude with a value of .22cm.

Step 59

Now select both planes you just created, and select the Mirror tool with these settings.

Step 60

Move the new clone of the two boxes on top just a bit, so that they’re not perfectly aligned with the ones underneath them.

Step 61

Now create the side rings just as we did in STEP 41.

Step 62

Group all of these objects and call it “Notebook”.

Step 63

Final step, creating the CD, Start by making a Tube with these values, Radius 1: 5.2cm, Radius 2: .7cm, Height .03cm, Sides 36.

Step 64

Right Click, convert to Editable Poly.

Step 65

Select one of the Edges and Press Ring to select all of the inner segments.

Step 66

Select the Connect Tool from the side toolbar and make the Slide value -65.

Step 67

Select the Chamfer Tool, and give it an amount of .02cm.

Step 68

Hold down Shift and select the Polygons icon to select those polygons.

Step 69

Use the Extrude Tool and give it an amount of .-.025cm, Call it CD.

Step 70

Now we have all our stationary materials ready, lets put everything in place! Once done, we should be left with something like this. That’s it for the first part. In the second part to this tutorial we’ll cover the Materials, Lighting, Rendering and Post-Production. The actual file will also be included for you to work with and check out. Cya then!


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Flash for Android: Introduction to BitmapScroller

This is an introduction to my BitmapScroller class. I’ll explain how to get it up and running with ANT and FDT.


Section 1: BitmapScroller and ANT

The BitmapScroller class allows you to scroll multiple bitmaps as if they were a single image. I have used it on several sites, most noteworthy being thejohnnycashproject.com. In this video you will also see how I use ANT to help automate building a web and mobile version of this app.

Don’t like ads? Download the screencast, or subscribe to Activetuts+ screencasts via iTunes!


Section 2: BitmapScroller on Android

In part two of my introduction to the BitmapScroller I show you what it looks like when running on an Android phone. The BitmapScroller runs surprisingly well at 30 fps when idle and 19-21 fps when scrolling. The source code can be found at http://github.com/theflashbum/BitmapScroller.

Don’t like ads? Download the screencast, or subscribe to Activetuts+ screencasts via iTunes!

Don’t forget you can tart up your desktop and mobile devices with the Flash for Android Wallpaper!

Can You Make Ends Meet on a Single Income?

My wife and I made a conscious decision roughly 20 years ago to live on a single income. At the time, we just had our first child and we didn’t feel right leaving her at day care all day long. Also, my wife really wanted to be home with our daughter. At that time, my wife and I were making roughly the same salary. So, in effect, we basically took a 50% pay cut by having her stay at home and live off of one income. Eventually we went through all of our savings. In time, due to increases in my salary, we were able to stabilize and start saving money for the future – but this took many years.

We ended up having another child four years later. Currently one is in college and the other is in high school. Granted, we live frugally and don’t splurge on expensive vacations, electronic gadgets, or a fancy house. My wife also cooks each night which saves us on restaurant bills. With the advent of college bills and a stabilizing of my salary, there tends to be a whole lot of month at the end of the paycheck. It seems that even though the economy is still in a funk, prices are still going up…but not commensurate with my compensation.

I went in for a financial consultation the other day and it wasn’t pretty. The suggestion by the financial advisor was to try to supplement my income. So I have been doing just that in the form of freelance writing. I am also trying to think of other ways to bring in some more money to pay the bills and to put away more for our future.

Are you feeling the same pinch that I am feeling? Can you make ends meet on just one salary? Are you looking for ways to supplement your income or have you already done so?

Book Review: The 4-Hour Workweek

Unless you are running on a different clock than the rest of us, you only have 168 hours to do what you need to do each week.  Figure at least 29% of that has to be used for sleep, and another 6% just for eating.  So that leaves you about 108 hours per week to split between work and fun.  If you’re like most folks, it’s not unusual to see over 60 hours per week spent on commuting to and from work, as well as on work itself.

And why do you work this many hours?  Oh, right – it’s so you can retire and not do any more work.

Tim Ferriss has written a book that solves your dilemma – The 4-Hour Workweek.  Mind you, the book has been out for a very long time, but it remains in the zeitgeist to this day. The 4-Hour Work Week presents you with tips and tricks to help you work less, earn more, and enjoy the time you’ve got while you’re still able to use it.

After being turned down by 26 out of 27 publishers, compounded by expert opinions that it would never be a best seller, The 4-Hour Workweek hit the New York Times best sellers list on May 2, 2007.  Since then, it has been published in 35 languages, been on the best seller list for over two years, and has had more than 40 printings in the US alone.

Here’s a list of what you can expect to learn in The 4-Hour Workweek:

  • How to outsource your life and do whatever you want for a year, only to return to a bank account 50% larger than before you left
  • How blue-chip escape artists travel the world without quitting their jobs
  • How to eliminate 50% of your work in 48 hours using the principles of little-known European economists
  • How to train your boss to value performance over presence, or kill your job (or company) if it’s beyond repair
  • How to trade a long-haul career for short work bursts and frequent “mini-retirements”
  • What automated cash-flow “muses” are and how to create one in 2-4 weeks
  • How to cultivate selective ignorance—and create time—with a low-information diet
  • Management secrets of Remote Control CEOs
  • The crucial difference between absolute and relative income
  • How to get free housing worldwide and airfare at 50-80% off
  • How to fill the void and creating meaning after removing work and the office

It might sound like an aggressive copywriters attempt to sell you snake oil, but I found this book to be well written and filled with interesting anecdotes and helpful advice.  But more importantly, I found it to be useful and easy to follow.  It’s not one of those books that promises to share their secrets – but only if you buy the next three books in the series.  You could go to your library, borrow this book, and start reaping the rewards as you implement the instructions.  You could to do that today.

The book is filled with examples of how Ferriss has been able to eliminate himself as the bottleneck in his company.  Can you imagine only responding to your emails on Monday morning – and taking less than 30 minutes to do so?  Once you learn how to DEAL (Definition, Elimination, Automation, and Liberation), you can start living the life you want to live.  And profit from it.

One of the most important aspects of this book is explaining the difference between being efficient and being effective.  Too often we focus on one at the cost of the other.  Ferriss provides excellent reasoning to help you decide when it’s the right time to be effective or efficient.

The biggest takeaways for me: mini-retirements and outsourcing.  I’m getting to the age where too many of my friends have reached that golden age of retirement, only to be struck down by a medical or financial difficulty preventing them from living the life they’ve dreamt of for the past thirty years.  Or worse, they’ve found that they achieved their dream only to find that it really isn’t what they want to do. If they had the chance to do a mini-retirement, they would have been able to enjoy the fruits of their labour, as well as test some of the alternatives.

If you are looking for a book that will help you achieve more, earn more, live more, all while enabling you to do the things you want to do – I recommend that you spend a bit of time reading this book.  I’ll be surprised if you only read it once.

With endorsements by Jack Canfield, A.J. Jacobs, and Charles L. Brock – you don’t have to take my word for it.  That being said, I haven’t met anyone that’s read the book that isn’t evangelistic about it.

This book teaches you to ask the question:

“What’s the worst that could happen?”

The answer is: you read the book, put it down and forget about it.  Then you go back to working your 50+ hour weeks until you reach the time where you want to retire, or are forced to retire.  Hopefully you’ll love what you do then, because you will have certainly earned it by the time you get there.

The next time someone asks you what you do – do you want to say you are middle management in your corporation, or would you rather say what Tim says:

“I race motorcycles in Europe, I ski in the Andes, I scuba dive in Panama and I dance tango in Buenos Aires.”

Tough choice.

On Assignment: Photographing the Pope in Italy

Photographing the pope as a photojournalist is similar to covering other major diplomats – like presidents and royalty. However, each assignment is different and brings individual challenges, customs, and red tape. In this article, I’ll explain my experiences with photographing Pope Benedict XVI in Rome, Italy.


Tools of the Trade

Photojournalism doesn’t require the flagship lines of the DSLR market like the Canon 1D Mark IV or Nikon D3S. However, if you’re on such an important assignment, it is vital to use at least a reputable "prosumer" DSLR that rivals their more expensive and durable bretheren. I have used cropped-sensor bodies with pro lenses such as the Canon EOS 40D and recently the Canon EOS 7D to photograph major diplomats such as Tony Blair, George W. Bush, and Pope Benedict XVI.

I like the cropped sensors because they give a little more reach to the lens line-up I typically take to assignments. I do lose a little on wide-angle lenses, but the Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8 USM II gives me a wide enough view without the major distortions. Additionally, the cameras in the 40D and 7D class (Nikon D200 and D700) give a good balance of resolution, image quality, reliability, and speed for their price. For a little more than a single 1D Mark IV, I can have two EOS 7D’s.

Here is my equipment list:

  • Two Canon EOS 7D with BG-E7 grips
  • 16-35mm f/2.8L IS USM II with hood
  • 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM with hood
  • 300mm f/2.8L IS USM with hood
  • 1.4x Canon EF Extender II
  • Two Canon Speedlite 580EX II

If the f/2.8 version of the 300mm is out of you or your editor’s budget, the f/4 version works well. I don’t like the 2x Extender too much because I lose 2-stops in exchange for the reach. Also, renting is an easy way to save money while still getting the job done.

For either indoor or outdoor use, get a monopod for your big lenses like the 300mm. You can hold it for a brief time, but for long periods, it is suicide for your arms. Again, the most expensive Manfrotto isn’t required, just one that can handle the weight and isn’t going to slide on you. Also, when you’re at the venue, take a smaller photobag or a modular belt-system with you to hold anything that isn’t directly attached to your camera, such as the extra lens, batteries, notepad, or whatever. The Canon 200DG bag holds a surprising amount of equipment and is pretty weather resistant.

Each piece of equipment is for a specific purpose and helps me do a wide variety of work and get the quality of photography expected from such assignments: professional. However, the most important piece of equipment is the 10-inches behind the camera. Even though top-notch equipment is at your disposal, it is no excuse to get lazy or suspend your innovation.

Photo by: DANIEL SONE

Software

When traveling abroad, it isn’t feasible to drag your desktop around – or even a gaming-quality laptop. However, your computer (a laptop) should be powerful enough to handle the workflow. The beauty of photojournalism is that because of the ethical restraints, only basic post-processing may be necessary (color-balancing, density, and slight sharpening).The key is to get it all right in-camera so when it gets onto the computer, it is ready to go.

In any case here is what I have on my portable photo lab:

  • Adobe CS5 Web Premium
  • Photo Mechanic 4.6+
  • MS Office 2008

The key piece of software is the Photo Mechanic. Most of the time I don’t even touch Photoshop because Photo Mechanic handles so much of my image management. I use it to download, rename, caption, keyword, credit, crop, resize, organize, and submit. And because it is so powerful, yet sips on system resources, I like it much better than Bridge or Lightroom. Once you have it, you’ll use it for everything, even batching photos for Facebook, Flickr, etc.

For MS Office 2008, I use Excel for my invoicing and Word to write any articles. However, I save them in the older format, .doc, rather than the newer one, .docx, because I don’t want to hear the response of an irritated editor saying, "I can’t open the file."

Also, send your editors only the JPEGs unless they request otherwise. They upload faster and are ready to go in the format they’re going to publish them anyways. This also eliminates the risk of your editor’s version of Photoshop not supporting the newer 14-bit RAWs. Getting it right the first time continues to rack up brownie points with your bosses.


Travel & Protection

Domestic travel with photography equipment is challenging enough. Doing it internationally adds a few more problems. Unless you live in a major city with a major airport hub, there is a good chance that you will need to make a connecting flight or two. International travel also requires dealing with immigration and customs agents in both your originating and destination countries.

Photo by: DANIEL SONE

To protect your equipment, which can be somewhere in the realm of $30,000.00 (cameras, lenses, computer, software, etc.) you need a photo bag that can fit it all and stay within international carry-on standards. The stuff I mentioned earlier, except for the 300mm f/2.8, all fits into my Tenba Shootout Backpack (Medium Size). The pack, stuffed with cameras, laptop, cords and cables, lenses, memory cards, etc. fits into the overhead storage bin. I’ve also managed to squeeze it underneath the seat in front of me, but that is a really snug fit.

If backpacks aren’t your thing, then I recommend the ThinkTank Photo International Roller 2.0. That baby can hold a lot of equipment as well as accessories. Both these packs/cases have been approved and tested to fit on international flights and I have yet to be forced to check-in my photobag.

That being said, I always bring a second, smaller bag which can hold everything that the Tenba can. This one is for emergency use only because it isn’t padded and can squish down. Practice packing your stuff into the emergency pack so you can do it quickly and be able to fit it under the seat in front of you.

Why?

Because you never, never, never, never want to check-in your photography equipment or computer. If it is delayed, lost, damaged, or stolen it not only prevents you from doing the assignment, but it is also excluded from the airline’s insurance policy. That’s right – airlines stopped covering photography equipment, computers, their data, and the loss of income resulting from such events. In the fine print you agree to the exclusions once you board the plane.

Make sure that whatever equipment you own or rent is properly insured.

An easy way to circumvent the worry is to get a seat in the rear of the plane and find out the make/model of the plane you’re using. Those who sit in the rear board immediately after first-class and business-class, almost guaranteeing overhead compartment space. Also, finding out what kind of plane you’ll be on gives you an indication of leg-room and overhead size.

It’s OK to check-in stuff that can get banged-up – like your clothes, tripod, monopod, or whatever simply doesn’t fit into your carry-on luggage and isn’t mission-critical.

Another form of protecting your equipment is to bring along installation disks for any software that is part of your workflow, including the OS. Even if you’re running a Mac, bring them. Also, take an external harddisk as well as some blank DVDs. That way your work can be saved to multiple locations. I now use a 500GB Lacie Rugged hard disk as my back-up.

In addition to backing up your photographs, back up your cords and cables. I bring three USB 2.0 cables, a USB hub, two CF card readers, two Firewire 800 cables, extra camera and AA batteries, and 5-ft of CAT-5 cable just in case the wireless isn’t working. For power, I have three universal adapters which allow me to recharge batteries anywhere in Europe. Check to make sure your electrical products have a 100-240V~1.5A range at 50-60Hz – this means it is safe for both North American and European use.

Last but not least, insurance. Make sure that whatever equipment you own or rent is properly insured. No reason to get stuck with thousands of dollars in replacement/repair fees when a quick call to your insurer can put you at some ease. This not only saves your bank/credit account from sudden bulimia, but also takes stress off your mind and increases your professionalism.


The Assignment

Whenever you get any assignment, it is vital to do some research to get familiar with the subject, venue, and context. During this phase, answer the 5-W’s and get the correct titles, designations, and most-importantly: spelling, of the VIPs. It is also good to get some background on the venues and the VIPs. When covering religious events, including papal events, it good form to investigate the significance of the event, or even why a particular color is being used.

On my most recent papal assignment, I was tasked with photographing Pope Benedict XVI bestowing the pallium, a special stole, to 31 archbishops from around the world in St. Peter’s Basilica. In addition to that specific event, I was to cover related events such as Vespers at St. Paul Outside the Wall, and a General Papal Audience in St. Peter’s Square.

So, my editor provides me with events, locations, times, dates, deliverables, and deadlines. It is up to me to obtain and facilitate the rest of the process and do good research and preparation. Without good preparation, you’ll struggle at crunch time.

So, I jumped onto the Internet and read up on the venues, the VIPs, and jotted down important details. I then got myself a map of Rome and highlighted the venue locations. I also wrote-down the Italian versions of the places I needed to go so that if I needed a taxi, he could get me there without anything being lost in translation. I also printed out photos of the venues to confirm they were the correct place.

I strongly suggest using official websites for any online research and shying away from Wikipedia for anything you’re going to officially publish. Wikipedia isn’t a bad place to get some quick reference stuff, but could harm your credibility or get you lost if the article isn’t accurate or is biased. A bad caption, misspelling, or something like that could be an embarrassment and short stint with your publisher.

Photo by: DANIEL SONE

After I research the events and venues, start arranging my flights, transportation, food, wireless internet cafes, and hotels. I try to stay in a place near the events – in this case I stayed near St. Peter’s Square because the main event was to be there. And by "near" I mean I could see the dome and pillars of the collonades. I also check out the public transportation system and find out which train and bus stations are nearest to the venues.

Finally, I find out where the U.S. Embassy/Consolate is located, just in case I lose my passport or something happens where I need them. All this info as well as my hotel confirmation, airline tickets, and identification goes with me on the plane with my equipment.


Credentialing Process

You get credentials from two different places in Rome, depending on what kind of coverage you will be providing. The Holy See Press Office (Salla Stampa della Stanta Sede) is for journalists. For photographers, videographers, and radio journalists, the Pontifical Council for Social Communications (Pontificio Consiglio delle Comunicazioni Sociali) is the place. Both offices are located very close to St. Peter’s Square on Via della Conciliazione. However, you can apply for either type of accreditation, or both, online.

I applied for the temporary credentials as I don’t live in Rome. However, a temporary credential is not a blanket press pass to venues, the Vatican, or papal events. In there you must specify the dates, locations, and event for which you would like credentials. The Swiss Guard is very particular and will not permit access to events for which you do not have clearance. So, be sure your press card has the correct information such as your name, photo, event, location, and dates before you leave the office to your assignment.

Credentials

As with anything this important, communicate clearly and concisely on the forms, send with ample time, and confirm that all the necessary documents have been received. Take copies of your transmissions with you in case of any problems when you arrive to retrieve your passes.


Security

Photo by: DANIEL SONE

Security is pretty tight. There are several levels of security personnel surrounding the pope, both visible and undercover. The first line is local police (Polizia) who usually wear blue. The second line is the Swiss Guard, easily spotted by their colorful uniforms and midieval weapons. The third line are the body guards which are physically closest to the pope. The final line is the military police (Carabinieri) who are like the special response and usually have a small motorcade nearby.

Comparing my experience with photographing the President of the United States, papal security appears to be more lax. However, if you’re a photographer, you’re confined to a pre-designated area . If your name is not on the list of credentialed persons, you’re not getting inside.

Real estate on photography platforms sometimes leaves much to be desired.

To avoid problems with security personnel, find out from the credentialing offices which entrances are reserved for the media. Sometimes the perimeter security, usually Polizia, aren’t used to the special media access and will turn you away. Don’t get discouraged but ask to speak to a Swiss Guard (or find one). Even with your media access card, you may be required to stand in line with the general public to clear security. This is sometimes done if the pope is appearing outside the Vatican City-State.

In any case it is a good idea to arrive at the venue at least an hour early, but 30 minutes is fine too. The later you show-up, the greater the chance of security problems as well as not getting a good angle for your photographs. Real estate on photography platforms sometimes leaves much to be desired. They can be bleachers, a riser, or just a narrow scaffolding.

For big assignments like this, I’m constantly reminded of the old saying that journalism is, "Hurry up and wait."


Challenges of Papal Photography

Photographing the pope has three main challenges:

  • High Contrast
  • Low Light
  • Busy Backgrounds

The first high contrast challenge that photographing the pope presents is in his attire and that of those surrounding him. The pope usually wears a white cossack and his aides wear black cossacks. This can drive your camera’s light meter a little crazy. Best thing to do is run a few test shots of white cloth and dial the exposure in until you don’t blow it out. You probably don’t want to expose for the specular highlights because you’ll lose all the shadow and most of your midtone detail. I usually +2/3 his cossack. That gives me a good histogram and doesn’t blow-out the highlight edges of his attire.

The second high contrast situation, aside from his attire, is the General Papal Audience outdoors in St. Peter’s Square. You have his white cossack virtually glowing in the sun, the bright ediface of the basilica, and the dark gray cobblestones of the square. If your light meter is set on evaluative, it will most likely misread the scene as too bright due to the light tones and under expose. Again, run a couple test shots so as not to blow-out your white cloth, but barely so. Because the lighting of an outdoor papal audience can be so contrasty, you’re going to have small specular highlights on the pope’s cossack. If you’re camera has highlight tone priority, use it. This will allow you to over-expose a little more than usual while retaining highlight detail.

…if you use good composition, even a crowd can become a readable photograph.

The low light challenges come in the church or indoor settings where you could be hovering around ISO 1600 if you have lenses slower than f/2.8. They usually light up the church to where you can shoot at ISO 640 to 800 if you want shutter speeds in the 1/80 to 1/160sec range. However, in St. Paul Outside the Wall, I was at ISO 1250 @ f/2.8 with 1/60sec. Each venue, including churches, will have a different lighting intensity. Because St. Peter’s Basilica is the main venue for the pope, it is perhaps the most well-lit allowing for ISO 400 if you drop your shutter low enough.

The final main photographic challenge of papal photography are busy backgrounds – particularly when the pope goes to greet the congregation. People from all over the world can create a busy, color explosion whenever they’re around the pope. This is usually because they’re part of a tour group which requires them to wear tacky colors. This can be awfully distracting for compositional purposes, and can present a challenge to your camera’s AI Servo (focus tracking) mode. That said, if you use good composition, even a crowd can become a readable photograph.

In the end, these are three reasons why I advocate so strongly in using the best lenses available for your camera and using f/2.8 or faster apertures. They allow you to work in low-light situations and get cleaner photos as well as blur out the background if it gets too distracting.


The Shot List

Editors almost always have a preconceived "shot" in their heads that you must get. This isn’t a material request, but it is important to them because they need to be able to visualize how it will look on the layout. What is even more important that getting their preconceived "shot" is that the photograph(s) you present tell the story. Don’t only submit one kind of photo, but a variety of story-telling photos and only your best. Never forget you’re a photojournalist. So, tell the story.

For this assignment of the pope bestowing the pallium upon 31 archbishops, "the shot" was the pope physically putting the pallium on. This part is a no-brainer. Capture it. It is kinda like photographing an Olympican on the podium with their gold medal, or a bride and groom kissing, or routine wave the U.S. President does when exiting Air Force One. There is no reason not to photograph it, especially if it something your editor has requested.

Here is a general shot list you’d like to bag on almost any assignment dealing with the pope:

  • Close-up
  • Full-length
  • Contextual Medium
  • Overall
  • Action
  • Reaction
  • Different

Regardless of one’s opinion of the pope or the Catholic Church, everyone knows a visit from the pontiff elicits a lot of emotion from the throng. As a photojournalist, I would be remiss if I did not capture someone’s reaction to being around the pope. I also would not be doing a thorough job if I did not take photos with context. Many times the tight shot with the telephoto isn’t going to be most interesting or story-telling photo of the bunch. So, send in a mixed bag of your best photographs each time.


Back at the Hotel or Press Office

Now it is time to get your photos off your cards, and into the computer to submit to your editor. Although Rome is a modern city, don’t expect wireless Internet access to be as standard, wide-spread, or affordable as it is in the United States. Additionally, access to the Holy See Press Office’s computers and wireless network is only available during their open hours, usually 9:00am to 3:00pm. Check to see if your hotel has Internet access, nearby Internet cafes, and look into purchasing a USB wireless internet fob with a local provider (approx. 60€).

I boot up the laptop and put all my batteries to charge. I use Photo Mechanic to download my pictures. The great thing about Photo Mechanic is that I can download multiple cards to multiple locations and apply baseline metadata simultaneously. I use Firewire 800 connections and with my SanDisk Extreme UDMA cards, cutting down on the time. I pack USB cables as back-ups.

Once the multi-location download is complete, I review my images along with any notes I’ve taken such as people’s names. Photo Mechanic’s JPEG previewing is lightning fast and I can move through thousands of images smoothy – even the full-screening is quick and detailed. Once I scroll through them all, I pick out my best and get down to renaming, captioning, keywording, and crediting them.

The file naming convention is important. Be sure to stick to the standards established by your editors. I use the following naming template for my photographs: yyyymmdd_newsedition_event_imagenumber.jpg

Once my selections are chosen and captioned, I review them to see if any basic post-processing needs to be done. Because of ethical and time constraints, I only adjust the ones that need it most and stick to basic adjustments. I correct for density, color, and contrast. I rarely do any sharpening as I set that up in-camera and shoot in JPEG which usually applies its own sharpening. You should only do these adjustments if your monitor is calibrated and your photo editor has given you the "OK". Otherwise, send in the untouched images.

Now, I’m ready to upload to my editor’s server. Before I left, I saved all that information and ran a test to make sure the connection works and the files are going where they should. Photo Mechanic has a built-in FTP client which allows me to connect to the server, choose several parameters, and upload. I click "Send" and its done.

It is always good form to shoot a quick email, text message, or call to your editor to notify them the photographs are posted onto the server.

Once the upload is completed and confirmed and my photographs are safely backed-up into a primary and secondary drive. I clear my used cards to be ready for the next day or event. At the end of the assignment, I burn to DVD the photographs I submitted to my editor. That way, if something bad happens to my hard drives, I at least have my best work in a third location. When I get back home I back up all the photos again for a total of four locations containing photographs from the assignment.


Conclusion

Hopefully this article helps you understand some of the important aspects of doing a papal assignment in Rome. Aside from having professional photographic skills, it is quintessential to have good preparation.

Another important element to have in photojournalism is respect for the subject. Respect it enough to learn about it, and respect it enough to photograph it as best you can. It will not only improve your photograph, but also the captions which accompany it.

A lot of work goes into getting there and getting ready for "the decisive moment" — hopefully this helps.

Are Desk Phones A Dead Technology?

The landline telephone was invented over a hundred years ago, and it has since evolved into nation-wide data networks, mobile phones and hands-free headsets, all of which can be incredible productivity tools. You can close a business deal while you cook dinner, manage your bank account on a bus, interview an applicant during your drive to work or touch base with your colleagues with both hands on a fishing pole or a golf club.

But, there’s still that old relic of a device, your landline desk phone, tethered to your desk by a primitive tangle of plastic coils, poised to light up and sound off at any moment.

Desk phones may have been cutting-edge decades ago, but today they’re fundamentally flawed. While their smartphone counterparts are taking opportunistic advantage of travel time and idle hands, the desk phone is hogging your prime productivity hours.

Nowadays, your desk phone can seem like an unnecessary paperweight, or worse, an automatic interruption machine situated right in the middle of your productive safe-haven. Often, an epiphany or an almost-finished task can get neglected, delayed or completely abandoned for a much less important phone call.

Emails allow you to address the important messages before the rest. Smartphones allow you to take advantage of time that would otherwise be wasted. But, a ringing deskphone will interrupt even the most critical work, regardless of how important (or unimportant) the phone call is.

Is your desk phone necessary and helpful? Is it a necessary evil? Are desk phones a dead technology?

How to Build the Trendy New jQuery Sliders: New Premium Tut


jQuery sliders are becoming more popular day by day; with more free and premium sliders pouring in regularly. Knowing how an advanced slider like this works is becoming a must. In this week’s premium tutorial, we are going to create a full-fledged jQuery slider which supports inline comments. Let’s get started! Help give back to Nettuts+ by signing up for a Premium membership.

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For those unfamiliar, the family of Tuts+ sites runs a premium membership service. For $9 per month, you gain access to exclusive premium tutorials, screencasts, and freebies from Nettuts+, Psdtuts+, Aetuts+, Audiotuts+, Vectortuts+, and CgTuts+ For the price of a pizza, you’ll learn from some of the best minds in the business. Become a Premium member to read this tutorial, as well as hundreds of other advanced tutorials and screencasts.