How to use variables in dot notation like square bracket notation with variable depth

How can I access different JSON objects in JavaScript by a variable containing the attribute’s path?

var item = {
              "car": {
                 "manufacturer": "Ford",
                 "model": "Taunus"
                 "surface": {
                     "color": "silver",
                     "type": "metallic"
                 }
                 "built (year)": "1975"
           };

let foo = "model";
let bar = "surface.color";

consloe.log("Model: " + item[foo]);          // Output: "Taunus"
console.log("Surface color:" + item[bar]);   // Output: "undefined", Desired output "silver"

This notation represents only one hierarchic level per set of brackets, of course. Is there an easy elegant way to access several levels with only one labeling variable like “one.two” and “one.two.three”?